Use your Danish Oil until you are satisfied with it, wait until the smell is gone, then buff away. Furniture manufacturers use lacquer on mass-production assembly lines for a reason. Let the finish dry until you no longer smell solvent on the surface. You only need a small amount of this extremely fine abrasive. You can also use Danish oil, but avoid water-based finishes that can soften from the heat of the buffing wheel. They run the gamut of mostly oil to mostly poly. (See Understanding "cut," below.) Turn on the lathe and press the abrasive against the fabric hard enough to slightly flare out the sides of the wheel, photo below. Which one did you actually use? For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. JavaScript is disabled. clean cloth removes excess oil and I remember how just a few drops of water would raise the grain of the wood - months after it had been finished! Use your Danish Oil until you are satisfied with it, wait until the smell is gone, then buff away. Attach a strip of adhesive-backed 100-grit sandpaper to a piece of flat scrap. subsequent coat dissolving into the I tried 2000 grit sandpaper instead and guess what, I went back to almost bare wood on some places! Dario, firstly I would wait at least a week before buffing Tung Oil. PREPARATION: Then, stretch your equipment investment by using the same setup to finish other projects small enough to hold. Leave it to dry for the night. Yup you could use the oil or just sand to about 320 uniformly and then go with a straight wax finish. If this has been any help to any of you please comment with a link to your finished product. My Tips & Tricks on Finishing with Danish Oil/Teak Oil etc.. My Tips on Finishing with Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish, My Tips on Finishing with Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish pt. For a really smooth finish, sand the wood while the oil is still wet. Strain the shellac before using it © 2020 Meredith Corporation. For more related content, subscribe to our newsletter! I am using Minwax Tung oil which I added 25% more pure Tung oil on [, A 2-Part Experiment on a Single Barrel Cigar Design - Smaller Brass Tube Sizing, and Novel Barrel Finishing. Danish Oil wordt ook wel Deense olie genoemd en wordt al enkele honderden jaren gebruikt om hout mee af te werken. Once mixed, shellac has a limited shelf life—after a year it won't fully cure—so you can whip up only the amount you need for a particular project and know the finish will cure properly.Second, you can experiment with how thick or thin you make it. The first step BEFORE applying the second coat of Danish oil is to sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper, to remove any rough spots and to smooth any raised grain. 1 Begin the polishing process by mounting the all-linen wheel and turn on the lathe, again at 1,800 rpm. I wait a day in between and then repeat until 3 coats are on. Note: For wheel preparation and buffing, wear eye protection and a respirator to guard against airborne lint and abrasives. Start by sanding your wood to make it smooth. previous one. For flat surfaces, polish end to end, with the grain, in overlapping passes. Lacquer comes in several types, with nitrocellulose the most common. The term "cut" refers to the number of pounds of shellac flakes mixed into one gallon of alcohol, so a two-lb cut has two lbs of flakes in a gallon of alcohol. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 41,927 times. Repeat the process to create a smoother finish. fresh finish on places that have Can of Watco Danish Oil Finish ‐ Natural Color Applicators ‐ paper towels, cloth pieces or foam brushes Soft paper towels or old t‐shirts for buffing 400 or 420 grit sandpaper (available for sale at … There are 32 ounces in 2 lbs, and 8 pints in a gallon, so 32 divided by 8 equals 4 ounces of flakes. Didn’t darken the wood much but will offer some moisture protection, hello and thanks for some interesting advice on using danish oil.. i have been building celtic harps for a few years now and normally use polyurethane varnish mainly for durability. sandpaper. It’s not a film finish - it dries and hardens in the wood, not on … The brush on the left, made with a finer-celled foam, will lay down a smoother finish. Otherwise, leave it for 20 minutes to absorb the oil, then apply a second, thinner coat of oil. Depending on how smooth the surface is, you can skip the sanding and simply buff the surface with 0000 steel wool prior to applying any oil.Now wipe on a liberal amount of oil. Although durable, shellac doesn't stand up well to heat or alcohol. Then, turn off the lathe and vacuum lint and loose sandpaper grit from the layers of fabric. Find a free article on applying traditional shellac finish with a pad at For more related content, subscribe to our newsletter! Once the finish fully cures, it can be buffed to a high sheen with #0000 steel wool and mineral oil. Wait 1 hour and wipe any more excess oil away. Work the surface until the wax leaves an even shine. (Or you can be like me, wait a couple of hours and then buff it!) Need to check your specific "oil" finish to see whats in it. You can also use Danish oil, ... Then, buff again until the wax hardens without smudging. Always apply it to clean, sanded wood for the best results. Avoid applying lacquer on humid days. First prep the surface of the wood. Flood the Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. i am just about to finish a hammer dulcimer with walnut sides and back so i am tempted to use danish oil again but dont want to risk the performance of the 66 zither pins used for tuning.. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated…. All Rights Reserved. This tough finish also polishes to a high shine and repairs easily. A lathe-mounted buffing system shines turnings and much more. But poly may not always be the best choice. and keep wiping off the oil that oozes out as well. If the sandpaper gums up while sanding, the finish is not dry enough and should sit longer. You'll be glad you did. For a glossier finish, buff out the shellac with #0000 steel wool and mineral oil, proceed to dry rottenstone with a soft cloth, then top with a coat of hand-rubbed wax. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Then, wipe off any excess because "puddles" dry tacky. 3 After you buff to the desired sheen, replace the linen/cotton wheel with a flannel wheel. Level out the finish using sandpaper backed with a hardwood block. If what you have is pure tung oil, thin with 2 to 3 parts mineral spirits before applying. This article has been viewed 41,927 times. then when you’ve reached the higher grits, it feels as smooth as glass. Shellac builds in layers, with each Keep the project moving and avoid polishing any one place for more than a couple seconds to prevent heating and softening the film finish. basically when you sand with oil the sawdust and oil mix together and form a very thin paste which deposits itself into any open pores. We know ads can be annoying, but they’re what allow us to make all of wikiHow available for free. That penetration gives a depth to the wood's grain that's hard to achieve with a film finish.

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